NEWS · 17/10/2024

Communal dining is Copenhagen’s best-kept culinary secret

Copenhagen is often seen as a gastronomic delight, but dining out can be quite pricey. Today, I’d like to delve into a more affordable and family-oriented aspect of the city’s culinary offerings—its lively community supper clubs.

Leading this initiative is Absalon, a community center nestled in the trendy Vesterbro neighborhood. On a recent Sunday evening in September, I found myself immersed in a vibrant atmosphere, surrounded by the sounds of chatter and cutlery as nearly 200 diners enjoyed hearty bowls of tomato lentil soup and crispy fried potatoes drizzled with creamy fennel and chive sauce. This was the nightly fællesspisning, or communal dining, where long tables encourage both friends and strangers to share a meal. The menu changes daily, featuring locally sourced ingredients transformed into delicious, budget-friendly dishes served by the guests themselves.

I engaged in conversation with a group of Danish nurses celebrating their four-decade friendship since college, and I was struck by how naturally they interacted. They made sure my son was the first to be served, even offering him extra focaccia to keep him content in his high chair. The conversations flowed effortlessly in both English and Danish, creating a welcoming atmosphere for everyone, including tourists like me. At the end of the meal, diners came together to stack their plates and tidy up, reinforcing a sense of community.

“It’s a fantastic concept,” Ivonne Christensen, one of the nurses, told me when I asked about her impressions of fællesspisning. “You don’t have to cook, and you can just come here when you’re tired; it’s really convenient.”

Affordability is definitely a highlight. Dining at Absalon costs just 60 DKK (about $9) and goes up to 90 DKK on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays when dessert is included. Children under three eat free.

“This is for everyone,” remarked Lennart Lajboschitz, the founder of the Danish retail chain Flying Tiger. He launched Absalon in 2015 to bring people together through food. “It’s such a simple idea, but it carries a lot of importance.”

While keeping costs low, Absalon also strives to provide a delightful dining experience. Recent offerings have included creamy potatoes and braised chicken, as well as international dishes like coconut dal and chickpea korma. Lajboschitz noted that some skeptics were concerned about maintaining quality at such a low price point, especially in Denmark, but they have successfully navigated that challenge.

Absalon isn’t the only place offering communal dining experiences in Copenhagen. At Kafa-x, a weekly vegan or vegetarian dinner is available for a suggested donation of 30 DKK ($4.50), with diners responsible for washing their own dishes. Ku.Be, another cultural center, offers child-friendly versions of its menu items during its bi-weekly fællesspisning, making it an ideal family destination.

One particularly noteworthy venue is Send Flere Krydderier, a social enterprise that employs women from minority backgrounds. With a children’s library and play area, this spot ensures that younger diners can expend energy before or after meals. The ambiance here is casual and bustling, where diners collect their meals after their number is called, and the cuisine is inspired by African and Middle Eastern traditions.

“These kinds of places are perfect for kids,” Eva Buchhave, a regular at Send Flere Krydderier, shared with me. “Restaurants can be expensive and not suitable for energetic children—especially in winter when picnics in the park aren’t an option.”

Despite exploring beautiful parks and iconic attractions like Tivoli Gardens and vibrant food markets, I found the most genuine interactions with locals and gained a deeper insight into Copenhagen’s culture at these communal dinners.

Joining a fællesspisning can feel a bit daunting compared to the typical restaurant experience. While Absalon has a host who introduces the evening in both Danish and English, many other venues operate solely with Danish websites and ticketing systems, which can pose challenges for tourists. However, once you arrive, you’ll discover that people are friendly and eager to assist, as I learned when a fellow diner kindly informed me that my food was ready.

Copenhagen’s supper clubs not only offer a meal but also create an opportunity to connect with the local community and fellow visitors in a warm, shared environment.

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