In an interview with Eric and Simon Cheung, the brothers who have taken over their family’s legacy, we explored the challenges and triumphs of their new restaurant, “Go Duck Yourself,” after relocating from the longstanding “Hong Kong BBQ,” which had been a beloved fixture in San Francisco’s Chinatown since 1977.
The family story begins with their father, Wing Cheung, who emigrated from Hong Kong to San Francisco in 1983. He commenced his culinary journey at “Hong Kong BBQ” and eventually took ownership in 2003. However, the family faced significant challenges when the aging building became increasingly difficult to maintain. By 2020, it became evident that a move was necessary, but their father was resistant to leaving Chinatown, cherishing the location and its customers until his passing at the end of 2023.
Determined to honor their father’s legacy while catering to a new clientele, Eric and Simon made the tough decision to relocate to Bernal Heights. While some longtime patrons may have felt a sense of loss over the change, the brothers recognized that their delivery orders were predominantly coming from the southeast, making the new location more convenient for their customers. Plus, the proximity to major highways would simplify access for diners.
What’s more, the name “Hong Kong BBQ” was becoming diluted, with many restaurants sharing it, leading to mixed reviews. While the new restaurant’s name, “Go Duck Yourself,” may raise some eyebrows, the brothers believe that a fresh start was necessary. To continue serving their loyal customers from the Northeast, they plan to open a takeout spot called “Quack House” as well.
Since opening in April this year, “Go Duck Yourself” has received an average rating of 4.3 stars from 78 reviews on Yelp. Notably, food critic Patricia Cheung, Eric’s wife and the restaurant’s manager, has created a warm and inviting atmosphere even in the stylized, steampunk-inspired setting. She is known for her attentiveness, like recommending which dishes to order before they run out.
During my first visit, I arrived just as awards were being handed out at the Emmys; while the menu featured roasted duck, everything else had sold out. Fortunately, the half duck priced at $33 exceeded expectations. Many American diners often think roasted duck is similar everywhere, so I was pleasantly surprised by the unique Cantonese style of their preparation, quite different from the sliced style found in Peking duck.
On my second visit, I tried the char siu, with prices ranging from $10.50 to $19 based on the portion size. However, the standout for me was the crispy pork, which offered a wonderful crunch and melt-in-your-mouth tenderness, priced at $12.50, $18.25, and $24—a great deal.
The cooking method for the crispy pork had to change after Eric underwent spinal surgery due to overwork in 2018; they switched to a technique where the pork is cut into pieces before roasting, making it easier to manage. This adjustment not only relieved some of the strenuous labor but also improved their control over cooking times and the ideal meat-to-fat ratio.
Patricia suggested savoring the pork skin for its rich flavor, although she admitted that her sisters prefer to skip it for health reasons. However, I recommended enjoying both, as the combination was simply delightful. Other notable dishes included the char siu bao and the lotus leaf rice with mushrooms and shrimp complemented with peanuts and scallions. The $10 stir-fried green beans were also a solid choice.
Lastly, the brothers have a specialty in Chaozhou-style roasted chicken wings, which impressed me immensely. When asked if their father would approve of the changes and direction they’ve taken, Eric confidently replied, “He would be proud of us. Our decision was the right one.”
